Last update: 27 May, 2022
After two quiet years on the coast and islands, visitors from across the globe are once again choosing to spend their holidays soaking in a bit of “la dolce vita” on Capri and the Amalfi Coast. There is a festive air and hotels, shops, and restaurants once again bustle with clients but with a new wave of crowds comes the need to plan your visit in advance to avoid hassles and disappointment once you arrive.
We’ve put together some tips and suggestions for planning your vacation on Capri and the Amalfi Coast for summer 2022 so your time here is seamless and stressfree.
Our number one tip is this: book everything you can in advance!
First, the bad news: traffic on the Sorrentine Coast and the Amalfi Coast is at its peak and public transportation is often overcrowded and running behind schedule.
Here’s how to make the best of a tough traffic situation:
The Circumvesuviana is a local commuter rail line that connects Naples and Sorrento; it generally runs on time and there are frequent departures. Keep in mind, however, that it is often overcrowded so you may have to stand much of the way (about an hour) and there is no air conditioning on most trains. It’s an easy way to make the shorter trip between Sorrento and Pompeii, but is not a great option to travel between Sorrento and Naples, especially if you have bags with you. Opt instead for the Campania Express, the tourist train that runs on the same line but has air conditioning and is less crowded. There are fewer departures, however.
Circumvesuviana and Campania Express Train Schedules
Sita buses run between Sorrento and Positano, Amalfi, and the smaller villages located between the two. Since traffic is often snarled along the single coastal road, buses often run behind schedule and all seats are usually filed at the departure location, so those boarding afterwards must ride standing up. This is particularly true of buses departing from Positano in the afternoon to return to Sorrento. Long lines to board often form at the two Positano bus stops, and buses pulling in from Amalfi are already full and not boarding additional passengers.
Skip the bus and take the ferry from Positano to Sorrento in the afternoon; in the morning, you can easily find room on the buses departing from Sorrento and headed to the coast.
Amalfi Coast Bus Schedules
Hydrofoils (high-speed ferries) and ferries run on time and are relatively comfortable, though often very crowded with long lines to purchase tickets. Book your ferry tickets in advance for both arrival and departure and try to catch the first ferry in the morning. The port on Capri can be overrun with disembarking passengers, so plan how you’ll be getting around in advance.
Capri is small, so the buses are small and the funicular is small. The crowds visiting the island, on the other hand, are huge and overwhelm the limited public transport available on the island…especially when trying to reach the Piazzetta (the heart of Capri town) from the port.
Tips for getting around Capri hassle-free:
No matter what you plan on doing on Capri and the Amalfi Coast, it’s fundamental to book in advance.
There are only so many boats available and it’s already becoming a challenge to find spots on boat tours departing from Positano and Sorrento to Capri. If you don’t find anything available on the date you need, you can take the ferry to Capri and book a boat tour from the Marina Grande port on the island. You’ll find more availability (and lower rates), plus you can use your free time before or after the tour to explore the island on land. That said, you also need to book boat tours departing from Capri in advance. You may be able to find spots on group tours that circle the island in an hour or two at the last minute, though if you book in advance you can skip the long lines at the ticket window.
You can generally find more availability for boat tours in the afternoon than in the morning, and sunset tours are almost always available.
Keep in mind that there is a docking fee for private boats from the mainland that want to disembark passengers on Capri of €100/boat + €2.50/person that is never included in the price of the tour.
Book a Boat Tour in Advance
There are few free public beaches on the Amalfi Coast and Capri, and they are generally very small. Even the area’s beach clubs are tiny, with limited umbrellas available and advanced booking required (a new post-pandemic rule). Most beach clubs offer online booking via their official website.
Most restaurants can be booked via email or by phone a few days in advance, but the most famous and popular eateries (especially on Capri) are becoming increasingly difficult to book. There are a number of hot spots that no longer even answer their email or phone, so we recommend skipping the hassle and, instead, book a table at a less famous alternative where you will certainly dine just as well and certainly be treated better!
We try to keep the opening hours of area sights and attractions updated, but it has become increasingly challenging.
On Capri, for example, Villa Jovis and Villa Lysis do not keep regular opening hours and it’s a long, steep climb to reach either of them. Avoid the disappointment of finding the doors locked after taking on the ascent by asking for opening hours at the tourist information office in the Piazzetta or at the port.
The best way to visit the Blue Grotto without having to wait in a long line is to beat the crowds by being at the grotto entrance right when it opens at 9 a.m. If you’re staying in Anacapri, you can reach the grotto on land; otherwise, if you are arriving from Sorrento, book an early-morning tour that heads straight to the grotto entrance at opening time to kick off the itinerary.
How to Visit the Blue Grotto
Over the past few years, this scenic hiking trail has gone from a favorite among a few passionate hikers to a mass-tourism destination. That said, it is a high-altitude, cliffside trail that should be approached with caution. Wear closed shoes with non-slip soles, bring ample water, and wear a hat and sunscreen (in the summer, almost the entire route is under the direct sun with no shade). You should never leave the marked trail and hiking with a licensed guide is recommended; there are a number of stretches with sheer drops and no guardrails, so we do not recommend this hike for families with children.
Path of the Gods Hike
Ffp2 (N95) masks are still required on public transportation, in theaters and cinemas, and in hospitals until June 15th, so always have a mask with you just in case. Proof of vaccination or a negative Covid test is necessary only to enter the country.
For more information about current rules, please see Viaggiare Sicuri - Travel Safety