Update Info and Tips - Autumn 2022

All you need to know about the situation on the ground on Capri and the Amalfi Coast!

Last update: 26 Sept, 2022

After two quiet years on the coast and islands, visitors from across the globe are once again choosing to spend their holidays soaking in a bit of “la dolce vita” on Capri and the Amalfi Coast. The area is very busy with visitors through the end of October, but this is the season of unpredictable weather so make sure you have a backup plan just in case the skies turn dark.

We’ve put together some tips and suggestions for planning your vacation on Capri and the Amalfi Coast for fall so your time here is seamless and stress-free.

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Ferries - Are they running or not?

One of the biggest inconveniences during a fall visit is managing getting around by sea when the weather conditions are wet and the water is choppy, causing many ferry routes to be cancelled. Here are our tips, honed from years of getting to and from the island in all seasons:

  • Check the weather forecast: in the weather app that you use, find the predicted wave activity and height so you know whether or not you should be concerned. If waves higher than 200 centimeters are predicted, you can expect cancelations.
  • Plan to leave Capri a day before your flight: it's wise to book your final night on the mainland so you don't get stuck on the island and miss your flight.
  • Keep an eye on social media: the ferry companies tend to update their weather predictions at the last minute, so a more trustworthy source is this Facebook page
  • Ferries between Capri and the Amalfi Coast are the first to be canceled, because there is no true port in Positano (just a pier) and boats cannot approach the coast there if the sea is choppy.
  • If the weather looks uncertain, book the Caremar ferry rather than the high-speed hydrofoils offered by other companies.

Traffic and Public Transportation Update for Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

First, the bad news: traffic on the Sorrentine Coast and the Amalfi Coast is at its peak and public transportation is often overcrowded and running behind schedule. Heavy rains in the fall months only make this situation worse and the coastal road is often closed after thunderstorms due to falling rocks and landslides.
Here are some tips:

  • Give yourself hours of extra time to reach your destination after heavy rains.
  • Don’t visit with a rental car. The roads are narrow and winding, clogged with a mix of tour buses, scooters, and distracted tourists. Parking is scarce and expensive. These factors put together can mean a vacation-ruining headache.
  • Consider renting a scooter to get around, but only if you have experience driving one.
  • To get to and from the airport, book a private transfer in advance, especially if you are staying in Positano or Amalfi.
  • One of the most convenient ways to get between Sorrento and Naples is the Curreri shuttle bus.

Book a Private Transfer

Getting Around by Train: The Circumvesuviana

The Circumvesuviana is a local commuter rail line that connects Naples and Sorrento; it generally runs on time and there are frequent departures. Keep in mind, however, that it is often overcrowded so you may have to stand much of the way (about an hour) and there is no air conditioning on most trains. It’s an easy way to make the shorter trip between Sorrento and Pompeii, but is not a great option to travel between Sorrento and Naples, especially if you have bags with you. Opt instead for the Campania Express, the tourist train that runs on the same line but has air conditioning and is less crowded. There are fewer departures, however.
Circumvesuviana and Campania Express Train Schedules

Getting Around by Bus: Sita Amalfi Coast Buses

Sita buses run between Sorrento and Positano, Amalfi, and the smaller villages located between the two. Since traffic is often snarled along the single coastal road, buses often run behind schedule and all seats are usually filed at the departure location, so those boarding afterwards must ride standing up. This is particularly true of buses departing from Positano in the afternoon to return to Sorrento. Long lines to board often form at the two Positano bus stops, and buses pulling in from Amalfi are already full and not boarding additional passengers.
Skip the bus and take the ferry from Positano to Sorrento in the afternoon; in the morning, you can easily find room on the buses departing from Sorrento and headed to the coast.
Amalfi Coast Bus Schedules

Public Transportation on Capri

Capri is small, so the buses are small and the funicular is small. The crowds visiting the island, on the other hand, are huge and overwhelm the limited public transport available on the island…especially when trying to reach the Piazzetta (the heart of Capri town) from the port.

Tips for getting around Capri hassle-free:

  • If you spot a long line at the funicular once you disembark at the port, keep walking towards the left to get to the “Banchinella” pier (molo 22). Public buses headed to the town center depart from here, and they are generally much less crowded. You can also take a taxi to the town center for about €20, port to Piazzetta.
  • If you look at Google Maps, it will tell you that it takes about 15 minutes to walk to the Piazzetta from the port. Google Maps doesn’t lie, but it also doesn’t tell you that it’s an extremely steep 15-minute climb that is only suitable for those who are in great shape and aren’t arriving with bags (or small children).
  • The walk back down from the Piazzetta to the port, on the other hand, is easy and scenic.
  • If you are headed to Anacapri, you’re in luck: the number of direct routes between the Marina Grande port and Anacapri has increased significantly this summer, with departures in both directions every 10-15 minutes.
  • If you encounter a line to board the bus at the Piazza Vittoria stop in Anacapri, walk back along Viale Tommaso de Tommaso to board the bus at the preceding stop near Piazza Caprile.

Seasonal Closures

Most hotels and restaurants on Capri and the Amalfi Coast remain open through October, then close for the winter and reopen around April. A handful of businesses to remain open all year round, however. In Sorrento, most hotels and restaurants stay open through the winter holidays and close the first week of January. Here is additional information about visiting Capri in the fall and winter.

Covid Rules

Ffp2 (N95) masks are required on public transportation until September 30th, so always have a mask with you just in case. Proof of vaccination or a negative Covid test is no longer necessary to enter Italy.
For more information about current rules, please see Viaggiare Sicuri - Travel Safely